Cloisonné vs Enamel Jewelry: What's the Difference?

Cloisonné is one kind of enamel, not another word for it. In the cloisonné vs enamel jewelry question, all cloisonné is enamel, but most enamel jewelry is not cloisonné. The difference is structure: in cloisonné, thin metal wires are fixed to the surface to form little walled cells, and each cell is filled with glass enamel and fired in a kiln.

That distinction matters when you're shopping, because "cloisonné" gets used loosely for almost anything colourful and Eastern-looking. Here is how to tell what you're looking at, and what we call our own pieces.

What is enamel, exactly?

In traditional jewelry-making, enamel is powdered glass fused to metal at high heat. When it cools it becomes a smooth, glossy, glass-like layer that holds its colour well. This is called vitreous enamel, and it has been used on jewelry and decorative objects for well over a thousand years.

Enamel isn't a single technique, though. It's a family of techniques, and the names describe how the colour is contained on the metal:

• Cloisonné: wire walls on the surface create the cells.
• Champlevé: the cells are carved or cast into the metal, and the enamel fills the recesses.
• Plique-à-jour: enamel is held in an open framework with no backing, so light shines through like stained glass.
• Painted enamel: colour is painted over an enamelled base, with no partitions at all.

Modern jewelry also uses cold enamel, a resin-based colour that cures without kiln firing. It is common and perfectly wearable, but it is a different material from fired glass enamel.

What makes cloisonné cloisonné

The word comes from the French cloison, meaning "partition". The technique is slow and very recognisable:

1. Fine metal wire is bent into the outline of the design and fixed to a metal base.
2. Each walled cell is packed with powdered enamel in its colour.
3. The piece is kiln-fired, then filled and fired again, often several times, because the enamel shrinks as it melts.
4. The surface is ground and polished until the enamel sits level with the tops of the wires.

The result is a surface where every area of colour is outlined by a thin line of metal. Those lines are the signature of cloisonné.

Cloisonné in Chinese tradition

Cloisonné is generally thought to have reached China from West Asia around the Yuan dynasty (13th–14th century), and it flourished there during the Ming dynasty. It is closely associated with the Jingtai reign (1450–1457). In Chinese it is still often called jingtailan, "Jingtai blue", after the rich turquoise-blue grounds of that period. Imperial workshops later used it for vessels, incense burners and ornaments, and Beijing is still the city most associated with cloisonné.

That history is why cloisonné and Eastern jewelry are so closely linked, and why "cloisonné-style" gets used for so many red, blue and gold designs. The look is part of a long tradition. The technique is specific.

How to tell cloisonné from other enamel

• Look for wire lines inside the colour. In cloisonné, thin metal lines divide the colours and trace the pattern. If a piece has one smooth field of colour inside a silver rim, it's almost certainly not cloisonné.
• Read the listing carefully. "Cloisonné-inspired" or "cloisonné-style" describes a look, not a method. That's fine, as long as the listing is honest about the difference.

What we make: enamel, not cloisonné

Our enamel jewelry collection is exactly that: enamel. It is not cloisonné, and we don't call it cloisonné, because we don't use the cloisonné wire technique. On pieces like the Chinese Red geometric dangle earrings, each glossy panel of red sits inside a single raised silver outline. It has a similar feel to the old court pieces, made in a simpler way.

What we can say plainly: every piece is solid S925 sterling silver (92.5% pure, stamped), nickel-free and hypoallergenic. Many of our red designs come in a vintage gold finish over that same solid silver, and the Chinese Red enamel flower earrings turn the same glossy red into a small four-petal bloom. Others lean quieter. The Morandi square enamel ring uses soft, dusty tones you can wear every day.

If you'd like to see these next to our pearl, stone and silver designs, browse the wider premium sterling silver jewelry collection.

Caring for enamel jewelry

Enamel holds up well in daily wear, but its glossy surface can scratch or chip, so treat it a little more gently than plain silver:

• Store it dry, and keep pieces apart so they don't knock against each other.
• Put perfume, lotion and hairspray on first, and your jewelry last.
• Wipe it with a soft cloth. Avoid silver dips and abrasive polishing cloths on the enamel itself.
• Take it off for the gym, swimming and anything where it could take a hard knock. Enamel can chip on impact.

FAQ

Is cloisonné the same as enamel?

No. Cloisonné is one enamelling technique, where colour is set in cells formed by fine metal wires, so all cloisonné is enamel but most enamel is not cloisonné.

How can you tell if jewelry is real cloisonné?

Real cloisonné has thin metal wire lines running through the design, separating each area of colour. A single field of colour inside a plain metal rim is enamel, but almost certainly not cloisonné.

Is Sterling Arc's enamel jewelry cloisonné?

No. Sterling Arc's enamel jewelry is enamel set in solid S925 sterling silver. It shares the rich red and gold palette of traditional Chinese enamel work, but it is not made with the cloisonné wire technique.

Is enamel jewelry good for sensitive skin?

Skin reactions to jewelry usually come from the base metal, most often nickel, rather than the enamel itself. Sterling Arc's enamel pieces are solid S925 sterling silver (92.5% pure), nickel-free and hypoallergenic.

How do you clean enamel jewelry?

Wipe enamel jewelry gently with a soft cloth, store it dry and keep it away from perfume. Don't use silver dips or abrasive cleaners on the enamel.

Related reads

• Is Cinnabar Jewelry Safe? What "Cinnabar" Actually Means
• Chinese Red Jewelry: What the Colour Means and How to Wear It
• From Palace Lanterns to Cinnabar: The Eastern Art Behind Modern Silver Jewelry

If you love the colour of Eastern enamel work and want something you can actually wear on a Tuesday, have a look through our enamel jewelry in solid sterling silver. New here? Use WELCOME10 for 15% off your first order, with no minimum. Shipping is free worldwide on orders over US$100.

Written by Peter, founder of Sterling Arc.